• Tehran and leaving Iran

    I’ve stayed on and off just under a month in Tehran, but had it not been for visa necessity, I probably wouldn’t have stayed more than a couple of days.  Consequently most of the time I’ve spent hiding in my very kind couch-surf hosts apartment while I wait for the powers that be to either …

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  • Iranian party bus

    With time in Iran running out I’d still not managed the one thing I was looking forward to the most: riding a camel.  For one reason or another a trip to the desert had eluded me, and was looking increasingly unlikely, as every tour pointed to extortionately outlandish fees to be on the back of …

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  • Isfahan, funerals and FIFA 2012

    So I’ve come full circle and I’m back in Isfahan.  Here I’ve returned to my very gracious, hospitable and generous host Amir, who has a passion for tuning cars and talking total shite when it comes to playing FIFA on the X-box.  With most of the sightseeing done, we basically spend hours locking horns and …

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  • Yazd, Chak Chak, and hitchhiking with Aussies

    Following the mixed bag of experiences in Shiraz, I turn my attentions towards Yazd, a desert town that is slap bang in the middle of the country.  So much so that you can’t actually see it on the google map because it’s covered by the ‘I’ of IRAN.  Rest assured it’s there though, and it’s …

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  • Shiraz, Persepolis and a negative couchsurf reference

    I’ve been neglecting my duties of late and for this I hope you will forgive me.  This is due in part to recent world events, of which more anon, but aside from this and for reasons I know not, I have recently lost all my mirth.  I’ve been having a very interesting time in Iran, …

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  • Turning 36 and cruising for chicks – Iranian style

    “Dad, how did you meet mum?” “Well son, it was like this; I yelled at her through the windows of a moving car while doing 40 mph in heavy traffic until she relented, pulled over and we could talk in front of her girlfriends and three lads I was with.” So the story must go for much …

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  • Visas, cloud forests, thieving bastards and going back in time

    Tehran is a rather large city. I’ve been here about a week and I still can’t get my head around it. Not only that, but it’s filled to the brim with Iranians. There’s around 8 million of them, but they seem to take great pleasure insisting that there are much more. It’s a city with …

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  • Hitchhike to India leg 45: Zanjan to Tehran

    After due consideration (and owing in part to spending far too much time hanging out with good people here) I have decided to turn directly for Tehran. Hitching north was proving something of a difficulty. As yet I had no confirmed couch-surf host, it wasn’t a direct route, the weather was pretty bad, and from …

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  • Zanjan, Rohan, Salt Men and Iranian toilets

    I’ve spent the last couple of days being shown around the wonderful town of Zanjan by my couch-surf host Roham and his friends. It’s been a joy. Ever apprehensive as to whether or not I’m on the same page as the people I stay with, sometimes it takes a little time to get to know …

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  • Hitchhike to India leg 44: Tabriz to Zanjan

    There’s no rest for the wicked or indeed on one’s laurels, and when you’ve only got thirty days to see the 18th largest country in the world, you’d better get your skates on.  So I depart post, post-haste. I’ve spent the previous night attempting to catch up on writing about the insane hitch from Yerevan, …

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