• What dreams may come…

    I’ve been forced to stay an extra day in Tbilisi before a potentially tough hitch to Yerevan in Armenia.  This is partly to do with my own misdemeanors, which I’m not going to divulge here.  You can damn well wait for the book.  Remind me.  This is also as a result of not being able …

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  • Hitchhike to India leg 41: Tbilisi to Baku

    Tbilisi was getting the better of me. Apart from ridiculously close heat, attempting to get off the booze for elongated periods of time was proving, as ever, something of a difficulty. My face was melting off, I’d sung Snow Patrol’s “Chasing Cars” at karaoke more times than the band performed it live, and I’d managed …

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  • Hitchhike to India leg 40: Gori to Tbilisi. Visas, red tape and bullshit

    In all the excitement I forgot to update you on my last hitch.  It went something like this: hold out thumb, get a lift, reach destination.  Alas it is the last time I will have a companion, for Olivia must leave for pastures new.  In a few short days of sightseeing in and around Tbilisi, …

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  • The death of the kilt

    For some time now I’ve been agonising over how to streamline myself for the more challenging journey ahead.  Try as I might, I could only whittle my stuff down to a certain point before there was nothing else to throw out or send to my sisters’ already crowded apartment.  I couldn’t possibly part with any of what …

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  • The Birthplace of Stalin

    So we’ve made it to Gori, a small town slap bang in the middle of the country, and Olivia has swung us a home-stay with a wonderful Georgian lady and her husband.  The town itself might be completely overlooked, save for the fact that it is the birthplace of one Joseph Stalin, and the museum …

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  • Hitchhike to India legs 38/39: Trabzon to Batumi to Gori

    This mission has been getting so ridiculously easy that I’ve been lumping a couple of them together in an attempt to not spam your already overloaded news feeds and other social media with people vying for your attention.  Yes you.  Quality over quantity in’ it?  Anyway the past two hitches have gone with..erm…without a hitch. …

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  • Trabzon and The Sumela Monastery

    Trabzon is a colourful place.  A(n) (in)famous port on the black sea with an ancient history as part of the silk road, its streets are a thriving hub of markets, street food, knock-off football shirts and hostels that double as brothels (first hand experience).  You’d be forgiven for thinking you were in Mos Eisley.   …

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  • Hitchhike to India leg 38: Goreme to Trabzon

    This could potentially be one of the most difficult hitches to date, but buoyed by our recent success in Turkey, we fearlessly marched out a little later than recommended for such time and distance.  Goreme is nearly just one road in and out, so it was a simple task to walk to our first spot.  With …

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  • Cappadocia

    Look at any travel brochure or website for visiting Turkey and you’re almost guaranteed that they lead with a picture of this place.  The mythical, magical wonderland of Cappadocia.  You’re basically on a Star Wars set.  In fact, George Lucas himself took inspiration from this fairy tale land for scenes in his epic space saga. …

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  • The Museum of Hair

    Something to put you off your dinner.  I discovered this little gem while scouring through my new favourite website; Atlas Obscura.  Hidden away in a pottery shop in Avanos, Cappadocia, is The Museum of Hair.  A carpet of female only strands of mane adorn the walls and ceiling of the cavernous ceramic emporium, hanging down like …

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