Well the time has finally arrived. There’s no more beating about the Bishkek. As I’ve continually mentioned, China still weren’t budging on their no visa for a land border crossing bullshit. If I was going to enter the country I would need to fly home, pick up a visa and fly back. Madness. Instead I decided to skip them altogether. They’re not getting my patronage this time – maybe on the way back if they’ve sorted themselves out. So about a month or so ago, I/we booked tickets to Bangkok, Thailand. Alex was coming with me for two and a half days.
It seems like yesterday I was struggling through the hostel door in a wintry Bishkek back in January. It was an odd choice to spend the longest amount of time in one place, especially since it isn’t the nicest location I’ve been to. I could have gone sooner, or risked a hitch through dangerous countries, but I opted instead for the comfort of finding a home – and a new family. That and I’m tired. I’m growing more jaded with this long-term travel thing and I’m looking forward to settling down. It was nice playing house for a while.
Leaving somewhere you’ve spent nine months and made lifelong friends was never going to be easy – but I like to think this little “rest” has kickstarted my zest for finishing the hitchhike. OK so flying to Bangkok and skipping China while paying for travel for the first time since 2012 is cheating a little, but I didn’t really have a choice. I’ve convinced myself that it’s allowed – especially if I continue my hitch from Thailand and around all of SE Asia. The challenge is definitely there and still on.
So either it hasn’t kicked in yet, I’m still focused on future travel plans, or I’m a soulless, heartless bastard – but I didn’t really shed a tear. I won’t ever be in this house again, or wash the dishes in that sink, or open the door when Alex comes home, or sleep in a Bishkek bush after a bender. I made some amazing friends here, and did some pretty cool stuff – most notably The Bard in Bishkek Shakespeare Showcase at the school. I’m immensely proud of that – and it looks like it will be returning next year. I did something useful for once and left a legacy.
And they show their appreciation again with a wonderful surprise during my last week in Bishkek. I’m told to call into the school for an assembly in which I’m going to be thanked and wished well for my future travels – but instead the kids kidnap me and take me to laser tag! Then we have a pizza party afterwards! I am going to miss them! It was a really nice way to say goodbye – especially as I totally whupped everyone’s ass with a laser gun.
I still got it – I gave a load of 10 year old girls a pasting at laser tag
I’m gonna miss this lot…
Bless their cotton socks – they made me cards. All of the feels
But I think for now the tears are on hold as I bid my goodbyes in traditional fashion at my favourite bar, because of the dawning realisation that I’m about to get on a fucking plane. The following day it feels very strange to pack up all my gear, before bidding a final farewell to a home I have so loved, and a chapter of my life I’ll not forget. We deposit Margot with a friend for the weekend, and instead of sticking my thumb out on the side of the road, we take a taxi to Almaty airport, all the while The Fear is taking hold.
One last picture of Margot. Now saved as my lock screen on my first ever smartphone
It doesn’t help matters that our driver is a psycho. He’s tailgating everything at epic speeds, overtaking on blind corners, and generally doing his best to piss me off. His actions on more than one occasion prompt me to take the lord’s name in vain – loudly – as I fear that we won’t have the chance to die in a plane crash at all; this madman will see to that.
We’re deposited at the airport in double quick time, and there’s no turning back now. Alex is being an angel and doing her best to comfort me as I’m visibly shaking at the oncoming, impending doom. We kill some time spraying perfumes in the duty free and eating overpriced chocolate. Finally, at around half midnight, we boost a sleeping tablet and board the death machine.
How all flights should be
And boy did it do the trick – I barely remember the take off and was out the full six hour flight. I’m saved! I’ve got three more tablets for three more flights – and then I’m never flying again! Thank you drugs!
Outside our hostel in Bangkok
Touchdown Thailand. We leave the cavemen, cold and seasonal eczema behind and step out into humid, hot, sticky, sweaty Bangkok. Making our way across town to our hostel, there’s one major thing to notice: almost everyone is wearing black. The Thai people take the recent death of their king very seriously.
The Thai king’s image is everywhere
Bhumibol Adulyadej passed away back in October aged 88. Such was his influence here that the outpouring of grief is astounding. Thailand will mourn his death for a year, with festivals and other events being toned down. His effigy adorns billboards, posters and video screens all over the city. Clothing shops are only stocking black garments. At the airport – tourists are suggested to wear black or black armbands. But it is outside the Grand Palace where we’re astounded the most.
Free food!
Thousands of mourners flood the street, and all along the roadside food is being given away. Free ice creams, curries, noodles, rice, drinks and other goods are just handed out. Fascinatingly, they’re offering free t-shirt prints of the King’s face, as well as free haircuts for those inclined. There’s TV crews galore, tannoy announcements, free scooter rides, and uniformed officials everywhere. People dressed in black as far as the eye can see. One lady apologies to us for the inconvenience, but on the contrary, this is a special and memorable time to have visited the country. We respectfully apologise for their loss. By all accounts and clear from the extensive mourning period that he was a great man and will be sorely missed. The queen will not be so revered. Rest in Peace Bhumibol Adulyadej.
Rattling through the streets in a tuk-tuk – but don’t let them rip you off
Bangkok is huge. It’s a city of some 6 million people, and it’s a teeming, heaving, smoggy, sweaty throng, and it doesn’t take a genius to understand why as you blaze through the streets in a tuk-tuk. It’s also a tourist hell for people like me who prefer places others don’t go – there’s far too many tossers for my liking – especially in the Khao San Road which attracts gormless gap yah backpackers like flies round shite. There’s a heavy cloud of smog hanging in the air too, but it does have redeeming features.
One of the many temples thoughout the city
The temples are beautiful – and fascinating to see – I know little about Buddha and the practices of the Buddhist religion. Some 94 % of Thais are followers, so I’d do well to learn a little of his teachings. Orange robed monks are easy to spot in the sea of black, and inside the temples the smell is certainly more pleasant than the air of the city. Alex is keen on the teachings of Buddha and enlightens me on the history, but perhaps I’ll do my own research while I’m here – I reckon he’s got some policies I could get behind.
Street food. No I didn’t try one – but Alex braved a couple of smaller bugs. MMmmmm protein
We finish the day with what this place is arguably the most famous for. No, not the ladyboys (although we do run into several of them), but the street food. Washed down with a couple of beers, it’s a far cry from the quality (or lack thereof) of Central Asian cuisine. I think my stomach ulcers are going to like it here, so long as I’m easy on the spice.
A quiet roundabout. Not a horn to be heard
One little amusing tit-bit is something I notice while we’re in a taxi heading home. I wind down the window and turn to Alex and ask what can she hear. No car horns. None. Not one. In a city this big, with this much traffic that is astounding. They drive on the left, and stay in the proper lanes. Bangkok dwarfs Bishkek, yet even at extremely busy junctions and intersections, not a peep can be heard. Kyrgyzstan take note – sort out your shitty drivers and traffic chaos. Although the roadside is still loud, it’s strangely refreshing and satisfying that nobody is sitting on their horns and driving like a blind, armless monkey. That’ll be Buddhism for you.
Tourist hell hole
Although I continue to have a few Singha beers alone at the corner bar before turning in for the night, it’s not long before I do so. Tomorrow is going to be an incredible day – visiting an elephant sanctuary. I wasn’t prepared for just how amazing it was to become. Tune in soon dear readers for a remarkable family story – when I’m bothered to write it. For now enjoy these snaps from our wander round the city. There’ll be more to come – I’ve not even scratched the surface.
Hitchhike to India leg 53: Bishkek to Bangkok
Well the time has finally arrived. There’s no more beating about the Bishkek. As I’ve continually mentioned, China still weren’t budging on their no visa for a land border crossing bullshit. If I was going to enter the country I would need to fly home, pick up a visa and fly back. Madness. Instead I decided to skip them altogether. They’re not getting my patronage this time – maybe on the way back if they’ve sorted themselves out. So about a month or so ago, I/we booked tickets to Bangkok, Thailand. Alex was coming with me for two and a half days.
It seems like yesterday I was struggling through the hostel door in a wintry Bishkek back in January. It was an odd choice to spend the longest amount of time in one place, especially since it isn’t the nicest location I’ve been to. I could have gone sooner, or risked a hitch through dangerous countries, but I opted instead for the comfort of finding a home – and a new family. That and I’m tired. I’m growing more jaded with this long-term travel thing and I’m looking forward to settling down. It was nice playing house for a while.
Leaving somewhere you’ve spent nine months and made lifelong friends was never going to be easy – but I like to think this little “rest” has kickstarted my zest for finishing the hitchhike. OK so flying to Bangkok and skipping China while paying for travel for the first time since 2012 is cheating a little, but I didn’t really have a choice. I’ve convinced myself that it’s allowed – especially if I continue my hitch from Thailand and around all of SE Asia. The challenge is definitely there and still on.
So either it hasn’t kicked in yet, I’m still focused on future travel plans, or I’m a soulless, heartless bastard – but I didn’t really shed a tear. I won’t ever be in this house again, or wash the dishes in that sink, or open the door when Alex comes home, or sleep in a Bishkek bush after a bender. I made some amazing friends here, and did some pretty cool stuff – most notably The Bard in Bishkek Shakespeare Showcase at the school. I’m immensely proud of that – and it looks like it will be returning next year. I did something useful for once and left a legacy.
And they show their appreciation again with a wonderful surprise during my last week in Bishkek. I’m told to call into the school for an assembly in which I’m going to be thanked and wished well for my future travels – but instead the kids kidnap me and take me to laser tag! Then we have a pizza party afterwards! I am going to miss them! It was a really nice way to say goodbye – especially as I totally whupped everyone’s ass with a laser gun.
I still got it – I gave a load of 10 year old girls a pasting at laser tag
I’m gonna miss this lot…
Bless their cotton socks – they made me cards. All of the feels
But I think for now the tears are on hold as I bid my goodbyes in traditional fashion at my favourite bar, because of the dawning realisation that I’m about to get on a fucking plane. The following day it feels very strange to pack up all my gear, before bidding a final farewell to a home I have so loved, and a chapter of my life I’ll not forget. We deposit Margot with a friend for the weekend, and instead of sticking my thumb out on the side of the road, we take a taxi to Almaty airport, all the while The Fear is taking hold.
One last picture of Margot. Now saved as my lock screen on my first ever smartphone
It doesn’t help matters that our driver is a psycho. He’s tailgating everything at epic speeds, overtaking on blind corners, and generally doing his best to piss me off. His actions on more than one occasion prompt me to take the lord’s name in vain – loudly – as I fear that we won’t have the chance to die in a plane crash at all; this madman will see to that.
We’re deposited at the airport in double quick time, and there’s no turning back now. Alex is being an angel and doing her best to comfort me as I’m visibly shaking at the oncoming, impending doom. We kill some time spraying perfumes in the duty free and eating overpriced chocolate. Finally, at around half midnight, we boost a sleeping tablet and board the death machine.
How all flights should be
And boy did it do the trick – I barely remember the take off and was out the full six hour flight. I’m saved! I’ve got three more tablets for three more flights – and then I’m never flying again! Thank you drugs!
Outside our hostel in Bangkok
Touchdown Thailand. We leave the cavemen, cold and seasonal eczema behind and step out into humid, hot, sticky, sweaty Bangkok. Making our way across town to our hostel, there’s one major thing to notice: almost everyone is wearing black. The Thai people take the recent death of their king very seriously.
The Thai king’s image is everywhere
Bhumibol Adulyadej passed away back in October aged 88. Such was his influence here that the outpouring of grief is astounding. Thailand will mourn his death for a year, with festivals and other events being toned down. His effigy adorns billboards, posters and video screens all over the city. Clothing shops are only stocking black garments. At the airport – tourists are suggested to wear black or black armbands. But it is outside the Grand Palace where we’re astounded the most.
Free food!
Thousands of mourners flood the street, and all along the roadside food is being given away. Free ice creams, curries, noodles, rice, drinks and other goods are just handed out. Fascinatingly, they’re offering free t-shirt prints of the King’s face, as well as free haircuts for those inclined. There’s TV crews galore, tannoy announcements, free scooter rides, and uniformed officials everywhere. People dressed in black as far as the eye can see. One lady apologies to us for the inconvenience, but on the contrary, this is a special and memorable time to have visited the country. We respectfully apologise for their loss. By all accounts and clear from the extensive mourning period that he was a great man and will be sorely missed. The queen will not be so revered. Rest in Peace Bhumibol Adulyadej.
Rattling through the streets in a tuk-tuk – but don’t let them rip you off
Bangkok is huge. It’s a city of some 6 million people, and it’s a teeming, heaving, smoggy, sweaty throng, and it doesn’t take a genius to understand why as you blaze through the streets in a tuk-tuk. It’s also a tourist hell for people like me who prefer places others don’t go – there’s far too many tossers for my liking – especially in the Khao San Road which attracts gormless gap yah backpackers like flies round shite. There’s a heavy cloud of smog hanging in the air too, but it does have redeeming features.
One of the many temples thoughout the city
The temples are beautiful – and fascinating to see – I know little about Buddha and the practices of the Buddhist religion. Some 94 % of Thais are followers, so I’d do well to learn a little of his teachings. Orange robed monks are easy to spot in the sea of black, and inside the temples the smell is certainly more pleasant than the air of the city. Alex is keen on the teachings of Buddha and enlightens me on the history, but perhaps I’ll do my own research while I’m here – I reckon he’s got some policies I could get behind.
Street food. No I didn’t try one – but Alex braved a couple of smaller bugs. MMmmmm protein
We finish the day with what this place is arguably the most famous for. No, not the ladyboys (although we do run into several of them), but the street food. Washed down with a couple of beers, it’s a far cry from the quality (or lack thereof) of Central Asian cuisine. I think my stomach ulcers are going to like it here, so long as I’m easy on the spice.
A quiet roundabout. Not a horn to be heard
One little amusing tit-bit is something I notice while we’re in a taxi heading home. I wind down the window and turn to Alex and ask what can she hear. No car horns. None. Not one. In a city this big, with this much traffic that is astounding. They drive on the left, and stay in the proper lanes. Bangkok dwarfs Bishkek, yet even at extremely busy junctions and intersections, not a peep can be heard. Kyrgyzstan take note – sort out your shitty drivers and traffic chaos. Although the roadside is still loud, it’s strangely refreshing and satisfying that nobody is sitting on their horns and driving like a blind, armless monkey. That’ll be Buddhism for you.
Tourist hell hole
Although I continue to have a few Singha beers alone at the corner bar before turning in for the night, it’s not long before I do so. Tomorrow is going to be an incredible day – visiting an elephant sanctuary. I wasn’t prepared for just how amazing it was to become. Tune in soon dear readers for a remarkable family story – when I’m bothered to write it. For now enjoy these snaps from our wander round the city. There’ll be more to come – I’ve not even scratched the surface.