The very last train I boarded was from Belgrade to Sofia circa 2015. At the time I was trying to get over a girl called Sofia. I am now once again on a train to Sofia – only this time not trying to get over a girl – but rather trying to be in the …
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Belgrade to Sofia – “The Balkan”
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The midnight train going anywhere…
Well, back to the city of Sofia to be exact… After my third (and final) love/hate relationship with Belgrade which has subjected me to visits to health care professionals, garnered a wealth of new friends, a bruised heart and a partridge in a pear tree, I find myself on an emotional stumble to the train station, …
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The Black Hole of Belgrade Booze Boat Blowout
Alright, this is getting ridiculous. A few weeks ago I had arrived back in Belgrade to spend a weekend seeing friends and getting up to mischief with (a) hot Serbian woma(e)n. I’ll only stay a couple of days thought I, adamant that a return to Sofia would be imminent and I would be into Turkey before …
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Hitchhike to India leg 16: Belgrade to Novi Sad and military wankers
I’m sitting nervously on a bone shaking tram for ten stops before I realise I’m going in the wrong direction and I’ve forgotten my kilt knife. Serbians glower strange looks as they see a bag laden angry dude curse his way back into town. I hate losing time on hitch days, and especially missing the …
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Beaten in Belgrade
Belgrade is ruining me. I’ve forgotten what sunlight looks like, my bed sheets need industrial fumigation and I’m a beer pong champion. I’m on first name terms with a load of night-club bouncers, and my daily food intake consists of four boiled eggs and/or a hamburger. My head, heart and emotional well-being are all crying …
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New Years Eve with crime lords
I can’t honestly remember the last time I had a decent New Years Eve. The onus and pressure we put on ourselves to find the best situation possible for ten seconds is astounding. I think it’s getting worse as we get older, and much like Christmas, it’s really one for the kids. It was more …
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Down in the dumps AKA: miserable bastard
I’m lying in a bed that hasn’t been made. Literally there isn’t a sheet on it. (It’s probably my fault). Someone has just dropped a foul stench from the tiny bathroom which is opposite my head. Extremely loud Balkan-folk/rock music is blaring in the bar below, so much so if you want a conversation in …
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Chain wielding taxi drivers, underground Serbian Turbo Folk sing-a-longs and Belgrade at Christmas
Good heavens above it’s Christmas Eve! How on Earth did that happen?! Where have I been?! Oh yes – in a Christian Orthodox country that doesn’t celebrate anything until January 7th. So this is a little weird. Consequently I’ve not heard one carol, not one rendition of Fairy Tale in New York and I’ve not …
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Hitchhike to India leg 15: Sarajevo to Belgrade
I’m awake and up at 5am. I can’t actually remember the last time I stood at the side of a road and stuck my thumb out; and it’s terrifying me. I feel I’ve regressed. A summer of debauchery has fattened my lethargy. It’s almost like I’m back to square one and I’ve no idea how …
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